First (full) Day in Rome

After nearly two full days of travel, I arrived at Fiumicino around 2:45 in the afternoon. It took nearly an hour to get through passport control and then another twenty minutes or so to buy my train ticket and get on the train. After a short, pleasant ride into town, I emerged from the Trastevere station armed with a map and a general idea of the direction of the Gianicolo. I set out for the American Academy, flush with joyful memories of my first night in Rome, almost a decade ago, spent eating in Trastevere and climbing up to the Villa Bossi on top of the Gianicolo. I was a lot younger then, and I don't think I had to walk as far with my luggage. I accidentally went past the Viale Glorioso (the main walking path up the Gianicolo) and decided to stop for a gelato to collect my thoughts. By the time I made it up the stairs on Viale Glorioso, I thought that a taxi might have made more sense. The trip was beginning to remind me of our adventures on the Ringstrasse in Vienna (vide infra). I checked in, took a shower, and called home. By the time I had gotten dressed, it was time for a lecture and cocktails at the Academy. That done, the students went out to dinner. I had spaghetti amatriciana and pera e canella for birthday cake. I called home when I got back and then fell asleep.

The next day began with breakfast with Mark Thakkar, a friend from last year in Toronto. We went to a 'bar' (it's like a cafe that also has alcohol and snacks). I had a macchiato and a pizzeta alla caprese. All that for less than $4! Mark and I made it back just in time for orientation. The views from the roof of the academy reminded me of the Smiths' dining room. We got an extensive tour of the academy and then Prof. Mulchahey took us through the syllabus for paleography. We followed that with a buffet lunch. My favorite dish was some sort of pesto gazpacho. We then had our first session, on the Roman system of scripts.

By this time, it was about 2:30 in the afternoon. I wanted to visit Santa Trinità dei Pellegrini and go to the used bookstore that Daniel recommended. I got throughly lost on the way down to the river. It was too early for Mass but too late to try to find the bookstore, so I decided to go on into the church.

When I opened the door, I was greeted by a dimly lit narthex. The noise of the world immediately stopped when I entered the church, which had one priest inside and had only a few candles burning and a few beams of light filtering in through small windows in the dome. Incense was heavy in the air. I was transported. I pottered around the church for the next forty minutes, letting my eyes adjust. Unfortunately, I left the camera because it had been threatening to rain all day. I will go back soon and get some proper pictures if I can get permission.

A priest and server turned on the lights a few minutes before to get the altar ready. Their Latin was full-throated and delivered at a natural speed. I guess the Italians know that Latin is a language. This was the first time I was able to hear and understand everything. I also like their treatment of diphthongs: "lah-oos tibi Christe."

As I walked back across the Ponte Sisto, I was struck by the smallness and familiarity of Rome. From my spot on bridge, I could see the ruins on the Palatine overlooking the Forum, the dome of St. Peter's in the Vatican, the cupola of Santa Trinità, and the academies atop the Gianicolo. In London, New York, Chicago, Toronto, or Berlin, I have always felt small and anonymous. In Latin countries, despite being a rather conspicuous gringo, I have always felt at home. Rome is the biggest town I have been to. Each of its regions is distinct and compact, but you can nearly always see the important landmarks and you know where you are.

San Pietro 

Gianicolo

 Santa Trinità

Palatino

Back in Trastevere, I decided to do some reconnaissance.  Michele, our resident Milanese, said that we need to eat 'cacio e pepe' while we are in Rome. I found a restaurant called 'Osteria Cacio e Pepe.' I imagine they serve it. I think that we'll visit soon.

As I walked up the Gianicolo, I heard a polyphonic Gloria echoing down the Via di Porta San Pancrazio. I identified the source as a couple of open windows of a building on the south side of the street. I stopped to listen for a few minutes, and a man came out of the building and motioned for me to go inside and come upstairs. I spoke a little bit of Italian and said that I had to leave soon, but he insisted that I come up. I stayed for a Benedictus and something that sounded like 'El Camino del Rosario.' While I was there, I figured out that I was in the Real Academia de España en Roma. On my way out, I gathered my courage and gave the man who let me in my best '¡grathias, amigo!' He smiled and replied with a hearty '¡De nada!' Rome is a wonderful place.

Back at the Academy, we had a welcome dinner in the main courtyard. I sat next to Filippo. I think that my Italian has really improved since the last time I tried to speak with him, or maybe he has just grown more indulgent. The food was excellent, and so was the company.

Tonight, I have to make some transcriptions for tomorrow's class. I plan on going back to Santa Trinità in the morning and trying to get some cash and find Daniel's bookstore in the afternoon. Sono stanco!